After watching a Travel Guides episode where every group gave the Cook Islands a perfect 5-star rating (a first for the show!), we were sold!
Some deep diving and a Cook Islands specialist training course later … we were on our way!
We flew from Perth to Melbourne, then Melbourne to Auckland, where we overnighted at the Pullman Auckland Airport, before catching an early morning flight to Rarotonga. From the moment we arrived, we knew this wasn’t going to be an ordinary holiday.
First Impressions of Rarotonga
Rarotonga has such a lovely arrival experience. It’s a small, simple, no-frills airport, but the warmth of the people and the climate hits you immediately.
As soon as we stepped off the tarmac and into the terminal, we were greeted by the sound of a local “uncle” strumming his ukulele and singing island tunes, while we waited to get through immigration. Staff welcomed passengers straight out of customs, offering help with SIM cards or directions to our hire cars. The hospitality was genuine, and it set the tone for the whole trip.
We had a small hire car and quickly discovered the island’s one main road takes just 45 minutes to drive all the way around.
Our accommodation was nothing fancy, but it was situated on a stunning lagoonarium and had some of the best snorkelling on the island!
Markets, Turtles & Coconuts
My daughter swimming alongside a turtleOne of the highlights of the trip was snorkelling with turtles with Rarotonga Turtle Tours. The guides were exceptional. We had four guides for just eight guests, and safety was clearly the top priority. We visited “Turtle Café” and other amazing spots where turtles live, with guides towing us on life buoys through stronger currents. Swimming alongside these beautiful turtles was truly unforgettable.
Another surprise favourite? A coconut demonstration. Our kids loved learning about all the ways the “tree of life” can be used. They sampled coconut water, then from the same coconut tried shaved coconut, milk, and slices — each tasting completely different.
For food, we loved the Muri markets for a quick, fuss-free dinner. A more upmarket favourite was Trader Jack’s, hands down the best fish I’ve ever tasted. We also enjoyed a meal at Charlie’s, though it was very busy, so definitely book ahead.
Aitutaki: Paradise Found
A short 45-minute flight from Rarotonga, we arrived in Aitutaki and were greeted with fragrant flower leis. This small island has just 2,000 residents, and it’s every bit as idyllic as it sounds.
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We explored by car and somehow managed to get lost in the hills on a muddy road in our non-4WD hire car! Who knew you could get lost on such a small island – oops!
Much of our time here was spent on the water, paddleboarding, kayaking, snorkelling, and walking the beaches. My son learned to paddleboard and spent the whole day out on the water, while my daughter perfected her skills from past trips. Our three-star accommodation was so lovely, we couldn’t believe the rating.
Leaving One Foot Island after a snorkel and walk around the island
We cycled through quiet streets, wandered the fortnightly night markets (arriving late meant slim pickings, but a chicken roll with mushroom sauce still hit the spot), and discovered my son’s fascination with hermit crabs.
Cook Islanders are deeply spiritual, and I wish we’d had the chance to attend a Sunday church service; the singing is said to be spine-tingling. That’s top of our list for next time.
What really sets Aitutaki apart is the lagoon. The shades of blue here are the stuff of postcards and dreams. We snorkelled at multiple spots, including a shipwreck where giant trevally and Napoleon wrasse glided past us. Lunch on a deserted island was the kind of moment you wish you could bottle. Don’t skip the lagoon tours on Aitutaki when visiting the Cook Islands.
Back to Rarotonga
We finished our trip with a few more nights in Rarotonga, including a Muri Lagoon cruise. While it wasn’t our favourite excursion, a little snorkelling followed by a trip to a nearby island for a cultural show, it was still an enjoyable day out.
We also toured the three main family resorts on Rarotonga to see what they offer for future trips.
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The Verdict
Our time in the Cook Islands was the perfect blend of relaxation, adventure, and family connection. From swimming with turtles to drifting over the bluest waters imaginable, it was a trip we’ll treasure forever.
If you’re looking for a destination where life moves at island pace, the people are warm, and the water is jaw-dropping, the Cook Islands should be on your family’s bucket list.
Early morning beach walks, Aitutaki