Cruising north, back towards the Scandinavian lands of the midnight sun, we’re sailing from Tallinn towards the Swedish island of Gotland. Half-way through our Crystal Cruises‘ Baltic exploration of medieval cobbled alleys and contemporary eco-architecture, on seas once sailed by Vikings and then Czars, the Serenity has become more than our palatial retreat, it has become our home.
Even when we dock at some of Northern Europe’s most spectacular cities, guests linger over their cooked-to-order eggs, sneak in a gym session and catch up on a talk they missed on the ship’s television channel. For all the travel adrenaline of a new port-of-call, it can be hard to disembark.
Day 5: Visby, Sweden… almost
Dr Jim Rowe’s lecture had raised expectations for our day exploring Visby, on the island of Gotland. “The entire town is recognised by UNESCO. It’s beautiful,” Rowe enthused. We were looking forward to a day of walking rose-tangled ramparts, on the 13th century walls, with views across a town of medieval beams and cobbles.
But a gusting gale and eight-feet waves, conspired to stop us from docking and the Captain declared, as most of us were breakfasting, that it would be “a sea day.” Surprisingly, with all respect to Visby, passengers seemed almost pleased. Some immediately left their waffles heading to the Aurora spa to book a treatment. Or to reception to schedule a private dance class or one-to-one tuition with the golf pro.
Rapidly, the day’s programme developed. Lt General (retired) Mark Hartling, already scheduled to talk on Finland and Sweden joining NATO, slots in a session on “Leadership”. Whilst Dr Jane Thomason, technology lecturer, assesses how AI will impact on the jobs market, before her later lecture revealing the Metaverse .
After taking photos in Tallinn the day before, a tutorial using Adobe Firefly helps to turn grey skies blue and remove parked vehicles from images.
Our dinner is booked at Umi Uma, chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s collaboration with Crystal. The Japanese / Peruvian fusion eatery took the award of “Best restaurant at sea” in the 2024 F&B Sea Awards.
Four chefs working at the stage of six seater sushi bar provide culinary theatre. They are performers with glinting knives as they slice raw tuna and salmon, preparing our appetisers as if they are art. My main course of Nobu’s signature dish of black cod is legendary: globally. Buttery, flaky cod in miso sauce, charred with incendiary precision.
As a Japanese party leave, they pause and stop at the sushi bar. Bowing their heads, like religious devotees, to the skill of the chefs.
Day 6: Riga, Latvia
We’ve opted for Crystal’s “Easy Riga” tour, a 3-hour bus tour of Latvia’s capital, interspersed with short walking tours.
Tatiana, our guide, is immensely proud of her nation, as we drive past well-preserved Art Deco houses from Latvia’s prosperous early 20th century. She also tells us that the Latvian people are beautiful. Latvian women, on average, are taller than the women of any other nation and per capita, Latvia produces more supermodels too.
Built in 1935, the towering Monument of Freedom was built to commemorate victory in The Latvian War of Independence (1918-1920) but during the post 1945 occupation the Soviets reinterpreted the maiden topping the tower as holding stars that represented control of the three Baltic States of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania.
When we hear a girl’s choir, Tatiana tells us of the power of song. In the late 1980s, Latvians knew that they could never militarily free themselves of Soviet oppression. Instead, thousands of Latvians sang for their freedom.
When the Soviets left and builders were refurbishing the Radisson Hotel they were astonished to find that the walls were filled with listening devices to spy on guests.
Day 7: At sea
“I’ve got a busy day,” says one guest using Crystal’s daily publication of Reflections to put her day’s programme into her electronic diary: a lecture on Bitcoin, a few hands of bridge in the lounge, having her hair done in the spa, a leisurely lunchtime salad at Beefbar, an afternoon film in the Hollywood theatre, a quintessentially English sandwiches and pastries afternoon tea served in Palm Court.
Raj, the fitness director, has a busy day ahead too: undertaking InBody scans to track key body metrics such as muscle, fat and water, then following up with personalised well-being programmes for guests. For Raj, this is in addition to leading the daily stretching sessions and a presentation on metabolism.
As it’s “Formal Night”, with tuxedos and many a little black dress, the ship’s photographer is busy framing sharp-looking couples and families. The hottest ticket onboard, as there are only 140 seats in the intimate Stardust Club, is for a nostalgic Supper Club evening. There’s a 1960s glittery Hollywood look to guests seated at tables of four for a menu that includes caviar, artichoke veloute, lobster and chocolate mousse. Of course the seven-piece mini-orchestra, with singer, played Misty.
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Day 8: Warnemünde, Germany
Back in the days of the GDR, nicknamed the German “Dictatorial” Republic, Rostock, far from the barbed wire and machine-gun check points of Berlin, was used to welcome visitors. Some VIPs, such as Fidel Castro, stayed at the Neptun Hotel, which still dominates the Warnemünde skyline, which with all its surveillance was nicknamed the Stasi Hotel.
After four days of heavy allied Second World War bombing of Rostock’s harbour, post war the occupying Soviets rebuilt portions of the city, in the local architectural style, but with wide avenues for military parades.
Today the docks are largely used for leisure but one crane, close to a ground level wedding venue, has been repurposed as a wedding night hotel room. Currently, it’s fully booked for two years.
Rostock’s St Peter’s church, free from surveillance, became a central point for the organisation of the silent and peaceful protests in the late 1980s, that contributed to pressuring Soviet President Gorbachev to allow freedom of movement between East and West.
Back on board the Serenity, our final dinner booking is at the Osterio d’Ovido for a sophisticated taste of Italian cuisine; lobster as an appetiser, a traditional gnocchi pasta in a delicate mushroom ragout, duck topped with a cashew sauce and finally a dessert of coffee foam on hazelnut ice-cream. Authentic Italian flavours, immaculately sourced and beautifully presented. As ever the red and white wines poured are of a far superior quality to the house wines usually served in restaurants.
Day 9: Copenhagen, Denmark
Some passengers stay on board for the next cruise to Oslo but most head for Copenhagen’s airport, disembarking seamlessly through Crystal’s smooth logistical operation. For those with late flights there’s an opportunity to book a tour of Copenhagen, concluding at the airport.
The cost
Crystal Cruises’ itineraries sail through the continents. The next comparable cruise will be a nine-night Southampton to Copenhagen cruise departing 27th July 2026 on Crystal Serenity. Prices start from £4500pp for a double guest room with ocean view and from £6900pp for a Sapphire Veranda Suite. These prices includes all meals and drinks, WiFi, port fees and gratuities.
The final verdict
As we disembarked one guest revealed that she had her next 24 Crystal Cruises booked through into 2028.
It was no surprise. Crystal provides ultra-luxurious cruising with warm intimate service, attracting well-travelled and appreciative guests.
There’s simply so much choice, for both on-shore excursions and on-board activities, that it’s inevitable that guests step ashore wanting more.
Disclosure: Our stay was sponsored by Crystal Cruises.
Michael Edwards
Michael Edwards is a travel writer from Oxfordshire, UK. Although Michael had his first travel pieces published nearly four decades ago, he is still finding new luxury destinations to visit and write on.
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