When we visited Ensenada on a cruise, I knew one thing for sure: I wasn’t staying on the ship. Many cruisers skip this port, but I had tacos on my mind. Ensenada is the birthplace of the fish taco, so how do you not get off the ship for that? All of this was within walking distance of the Ensenada cruise port, making it easy to plan a DIY taco tour in Ensenada.
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As I researched, I found plenty of taco spots worth trying, including a couple of Anthony Bourdain’s favorites. That is when the idea really came together. We saved everything in Google Maps, set a route, and headed out.
In the end, we didn’t make it to one of Bourdain’s stops, but that was fine. We ate our fill, stumbled on some local favorites, and capped it all off with churros from the market near the port. Don’t worry, I’ll still share the second Bourdain spot so you can add it to your list.
Going out for tacos turned out to be one of the best things to do in Ensenada. Tacos are cheap, filling, and such an easy way to experience the local food scene. I’ve linked our route map below so you can follow it too.
Getting Into Town from the Cruise Ship
Once you get off the ship in Ensenada, you have a few options for getting into town:
- Walk: It’s about 15–20 minutes on flat sidewalks. We chose to walk since our first stop, Tacos Fenix, is outside the historic center. It gave us a better feel for the town and let us head straight to tacos without doubling back.
- Shuttle: Runs from the port for around $4 round-trip per person. It usually drops you near the Bahia Hotel on Avenida López Mateos, right in the historic center, where the bars, restaurants, and shops are. Early in the day, it’s quiet, but by afternoon, it gets crowded and lively.
- Taxi: Always lined up outside the port, quick and easy if you don’t feel like walking.
What to order: Fish tacos.
Tacos Fenix is often called the birthplace of the Baja-style fish taco, also known as tacos Ensenada, and that’s exactly what we came for. This family-run stand has been serving tacos since the early 1970s, and it still draws a steady line of locals even in the morning. The stand sits on a corner, a little outside the historic center. Everyone was friendly, and the service moved quickly.
Fish tacos in Mexico are a typical breakfast, and it makes sense to eat them early in the day when the catch is freshest. We ordered one of each – fish for me and shrimp for my husband, since he doesn’t eat fish. Both were fantastic. The fish tacos were everything I hoped for: lightly battered fish, crisp cabbage, crema, and salsa on a warm tortilla. The shrimp tacos were just as good, and together they set the tone for the rest of our crawl.
At the time of our visit, the two tacos together cost about $5 USD, with the shrimp taco priced higher than the fish taco. They accepted both cash and cards, which made ordering easy. After loading ours up at the condiment station, I could have easily had more tacos, but we didn’t want to fill up too fast before heading to the next stop across the street.
What Are Tacos Ensenada?
When you hear “tacos Ensenada,” it usually means Baja-style fish tacos that originated right here in Ensenada. They’re made with lightly battered fried fish, shredded cabbage, crema, salsa, and a squeeze of lime, all on a warm corn tortilla.
What to order: Fish tacos.
Right across from Tacos Fenix is another popular stand, Tacos Corona, so of course, we had to compare. I went for another fish taco, while my husband decided to hold off since he had his eye on the birria stand across the way.
This stand has also been around since the early 1970s, and while popular, it wasn’t as busy as its neighbor that morning. I was able to order my taco right away, which I thought tasted almost as good. I actually liked their toppings more, and their salsas definitely had more of a kick — I recommend the green salsa for sure.
At the time of our visit, the fish taco was about $1.50 USD, making it one of the cheapest things we ate all day. They also accepted credit cards, which was a nice surprise. Trying both Fenix and Corona back-to-back was a fun little taste test, and honestly, I’d recommend doing the same if you want to see how two stands can put their own spin on the same dish.
What to order: Birria tacos.
Our next stop wasn’t part of the plan. My husband spotted Birrieria Soto across the way and wanted to give it a try, so we added it to our crawl on the spot. That’s the beauty of a DIY taco tour… You can follow your nose and curiosity.
Traditionally, birria is made with goat, and that’s what they serve here along with beef. By the time we ordered, the goat had already sold out for the day—it goes quick—but the beef birria tacos we had were still incredible. The meat was tender, juicy, and full of flavor, with the rich broth soaking right into the tortilla. Messy, but in the best way.
My husband loved it so much he went back for seconds, which tells you everything you need to know. This stop was a completely different experience from the lighter fish tacos at Fenix and Corona, and it rounded out the crawl in this corner well.
It wasn’t as crowded as the fish taco stands, but there was a steady stream of locals. The people running it were friendly, and the tacos were approximately $1.50 USD each, considering the exchange rate. It was cash only when we visited.
Stop 4: La Guerrerense (Seafood Cart)
No taco crawl in Ensenada would be complete without stopping at La Guerrerense, the seafood cart that Anthony Bourdain once called one of the best street food spots in the world. Their specialties are seafood tostadas and ceviches loaded with everything from shrimp and octopus to clams and sea urchin.
Okay, so technically tostadas aren’t tacos, but this cart is such an Ensenada icon (and a Bourdain favorite) that it had to be part of our crawl. I couldn’t leave without trying it, so I ordered two: the Guerrerense con Camarón (fish ceviche topped with shrimp and avocado) and the Campechana (a mix of seafood ceviche with shrimp, octopus, clam, scallop, and avocado). Both were incredibly fresh and well-marinated, but the shrimp-and-fish combination was my favorite.
For two tostadas and an agua fresca, my total came to about $14.50 USD. More expensive than the tacos at our earlier stops, but still cheaper—and far higher quality—than what I’d expect to pay back home. The stand was busy but well-organized, and the team running it kept everything moving. They only took cash when we visited, so come prepared with pesos or small USD bills.
If you love seafood, this is absolutely worth adding to your route. And if you’re following in Bourdain’s footsteps, be sure to try one of their ceviches as well.
Tip: If you’d rather have a sit-down meal, you can visit Sabina Restaurante, the restaurant owned by the same family behind La Guerrerense. It’s even featured in the Michelin Guide. You’ll find many of the same famous seafood dishes served in a more relaxed, table-service setting.
Stop 5: Street Market Churros
What to order: Fresh churros.
By this point, we were so full that I couldn’t imagine fitting in another taco. That’s when we decided to skip the other Anthony Bourdain spot, which was a little farther away, and start heading back toward the cruise port. On the way, I kept my eyes peeled for churros — and sure enough, we found them.
Right outside the port on Blvd. Lázaro Cárdenas, there was a street market lined with white tents selling everything from souvenirs to snacks. One stand had a big yellow sign that read Churros, and that was all I needed to see. They were piping and frying them fresh to order — for us and for everyone else waiting in line.
You could get them plain, rolled in cinnamon sugar, or filled with chocolate. We went with the cinnamon sugar, and they were everything I was craving: crunchy on the outside, tender on the inside, and not overly sweet. For around $4 USD, it was a generous portion and the perfect way to end our taco crawl before heading back to the ship.
Another Churro Option: If you prefer a sit-down café experience, many visitors recommend Café La Churrería, located near the port, where you can enjoy churros with coffee in a more relaxed setting.
Another Anthony Bourdain Favorite: Tacos Lily
We didn’t make it to Tacos Lily (Google Map It) this time. It’s in the opposite direction from the other taco stands we visited, and after so much delicious food we didn’t feel the need to push for one more stop. Still, it’s another Anthony Bourdain favorite in Ensenada, and I’ll probably save it for another visit.
Tips for Your Own DIY Taco Tour in Ensenada
Map it out: Before you leave the ship, save your stops in Google Maps. It will keep you on track, especially if you plan to start at Tacos Fenix outside the historic center.
Bring cash: Most stands only take cash, and it is easier if you have small bills in pesos or USD. Make sure you know the current exchange rate if you are paying in dollars. We paid in both pesos and USD throughout the day and always received honest exchange and change back.
Bring your own water: Drinks add up, so bring a bottle of water with you, either from the ship or filtered in your own reusable bottle. It saves money and you’ll be glad to have it between taco stops.
Skip the tap water: Stick to bottled or filtered water in Mexico. It’s safer and helps you avoid cutting your day short with stomach issues.
Pace yourself: As tempting as it is to order seconds right away, remember there is always another stand around the corner. I could have filled up fast at Fenix, but holding back meant I got to enjoy more variety.
Pack wet wipes and hand sanitizer: Things get messy, from salsa to birria broth, and napkins at taco stands are minimal. A small pack of wipes and a travel-size hand sanitizer in your bag make cleanup quick and easy.
Go early for fish tacos: In Mexico, fish tacos are often eaten in the morning, when the catch is freshest. By afternoon, some stands may run out.
Save room for churros: After all the tacos, it is worth ending on something sweet. The stand outside the port fries them fresh to order, and it was the exact finale I was hoping for.
Prefer a Guided Food Tour in Ensenada?
If planning your own taco crawl isn’t your thing, you can still taste the best of Ensenada with a guided food tour. These tours are a fun way to sample local flavors while learning more about the city’s history and culture. Here are a few options to check out:
I’d Do This Taco Tour Again
Skipping the port when good tacos and food are waiting to be eaten is not an option. This stop surprised me in the best way — it was clean, felt safe, and had plenty of good eats. I wasn’t interested in hanging out along La Primera, the main street filled with bars and cheap margarita signs, but venturing out for tacos was the right call.
For street tacos, they hit the spot. For the price, it was cheaper than booking a tour and gave me a much better taste of Ensenada. I didn’t make it to every stop, but that gives me an excuse to plan another crawl the next time my cruise brings me back here.
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Meet Kathy Ava, a food, travel, and cruise writer based in Los Angeles/Pasadena, and the owner and main writer of Tasty Itinerary. With over 20 years of experience planning trips and logistics at her full-time job and for herself, she’s become a pro at crafting unforgettable tasty itineraries. She’s always on the hunt for delicious, fun travel destinations and cruise itineraries. She firmly believes that life is short and we must make the most of it, so always say yes to dessert.
