This week will mark the 75th Anniversary of the Death of Princess Hélène of Orléans, Duchess of Aosta, who died in 1951! The Orléans Princess who married an Italian Prince and became a noted traveller and big-game hunter before becoming the Head of the Italian Red Cross, the Duchess possessed some spectacular jewels, which included the magnificent Orléans Emerald Necklace!
A historic early 19th century Emerald and Diamond Necklace, circa 1810, this piece is designed as a series of nine graduated emerald and diamond square-shaped clusters, the central cluster with a large cushion-shaped emerald drop suspended from a diamond-set scroll mount and flanked by two smaller drops, the diamond collet intersections with smaller emerald and diamond square-shaped cluster drops.
The Emerald Necklace originates from the collection of Princess Maria Carolina of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, the Duchess of Aumale who left the piece to her husband, Prince Henri d’Orléans, Duke of Aumale, upon her death in 1869, with no surviving children. In 1895, the Duke of Aumale gave the Emerald Necklace and an accompanying Tiara as a wedding gift to his goddaughter, Princess Hélène of Orléans, when she married the Duke of Aosta.
On her wedding day, Elena d’Aosta received both a stunning emerald and diamond necklace, and an emerald and diamond tiara from her godfather, Henri d’Orléans, Duke of Aumale. Given the nature and importance of such European alliance, it is not surprising that the Duke of Aumale chose only the most spectacular gifts for his goddaughter. He was a renowned art collector, with a particularly prominent antique book collection: the Duke also was a passionate admirer and collector of important jewels. This necklace most probably comes from his personal collection. The exceptional quality of the emeralds and the delicate craftsmanship, typical of the early 19th century, shows obvious resembles with the jewellery made during the First Empire, by Nitot or Bapst, for Empress Joséphine. The design of the main pendant, in particular, is of the same style as the one hanging on the emerald necklace of Empress Joséphine parure, now owned by Queen Sonja of Norway.
The Duchess of Aosta was notably pictured in the emerald necklace for a portrait in which she also affixed cabochon emeralds from her other Emerald Necklace on the top of her Savoy Knot and Star Tiara. Both of those pieces remain with Princess Hélène’s grandchildren.
However, by some point in the early 1930s (as found by the wonderful Beth), the Duchess of Aosta’s Emerald Tiara and Necklace was acquired by Sybil Sassoon, Marchioness of Cholmondeley, and worn for a series of stunning portraits as early as 1930, along with a Cartier Buckle Brooch. Lady Cholmondeley’s collection also included a Sapphire Tiara and Necklace from the French Crown Jewels.
In 1953, the Marchioness of Cholmondeley loaned the Emerald Necklace and the accompanying Tiara to her friend, Lady Churchill, for the Nobel Prize Ceremony, when she wore the necklace to receive the Prize from King Gustaf VI Adolf of Sweden on behalf of Sir Winston.
After Lady Cholmondeley’s death in 1989, the Emerald Necklace, and Tiara, were auctioned at Christie’s London on 20 June 1990, and went into a private collection until appearing at auction at Christie’s Geneva in 2015, when the necklace sold for CHF 2,629,000.
Entering the famous Al Thani Collection of the Qatar Royal Family, the Aosta Emerald Necklace went on display at the Rois du Monde exhibition at the Château de Fontainebleau in 2018. The following year, the Emerald Necklace was again auctioned, at the Christies’ Magnificent Jewels Sale in May 2019, where it sold for CHF 1,815,000, into another private collection and now belongs to V Muse Jewellery.
In 2022, Princess Hélène d’Orléans tried on the spectacular loaned Emerald Necklace from her namesake, the Duchess of Aosta, ahead of Le Bal des Débutantes in Paris in 2022.
The Orléans Emerald Necklace was worn by Hannah Husain for Le Bal des Débutantes in Paris in 2023.
Sienna Gallienne wore the magnificent Orléans Emerald Necklace for Le Bal des Débutantes at the Shangri La Hotel in Paris in 2024.
Most recently, Lady Araminta Spencer-Churchill wore the Orléans Emerald Necklace at Le Bal des Débutantes in Paris in 2025, and there is no doubt we will see it worn again soon!
