At a glittering state banquet in Helsinki’s Presidential Palace earlier this year, Queen Mary of Denmark stunned observers when she chose to wear a poetic relic of royal history: a 200‑year‑old gold tiara and accompanying bracelet, both steeped in classical romance and geological intrigue.
The delicate gold headband appears to be rather low key at first glance but it contains something unique in royal collections. For the pretty tiara relies on gems with a very unusual origin.
The diadem originally created for Queen Caroline Amalie—wife of King Christian VIII—is set with eleven diverse gemstones. These were gathered during a Grand Tour of Italy, including excavations in Rome and the ruins of Pompeii, undertaken by Caroline Amalie and Christian between 1819 and 1821.
Far from the opulent diamond parures of later eras, this tiara reflects a restrained classicist aesthetic, crafted for refined daytime elegance rather than extravagant gala display.
The tiara is set with varied oval-shaped gems, including a striking large red stone in the centre. The other ten stones are chosen randomly, with no pattern to their colours or textures.
Up close, in photos shared by Denmark’s royals after Mary surprised everyone with this tiara, the gold of the diadem appears to have aged. It’s a very simple tiara but has a complex story to tell.
Although unusual now, there was a vogue for jewellery inspired by the sights of the Grand Tour in the 19th century. Around the time that Caroline Amalie had this tiara made, it was fashionable to incorporate stones from such visits into jewellery.
The tiara hadn’t been worn in public for over 150 years when Queen Mary took it with her to Helsinki for a State Dinner during a State Visit.
It was a diplomatic choice. Finland is a republic and so no other women at the event would be wearing tiaras. By choosing a striking but low key piece, Queen Mary ensured she kept to the protocol expected of her without looking out of place.
The Queen of Denmark also surprised at the dinner by wearing another forgotten piece. Princess Vilhelmine Marie’s bracelet dates back to the 1820s, too, and is decorated with stones from Vesuvius.
Both the tiara and bracelet are normally on display with many of the other pieces in the Danish Royal Collection at Rosenborg Castle.
Queen Mary has stirred things up in the royal jewellery box since becoming consort. She had a diamond necklace in the royal vaults turned into a bandeau style tiara that she wore at the end of 2024.
The Queen of Denmark has also been seen in two of the pieces that only the woman who holds her title is allowed to wear. The Pearl Poire tiara, featuring huge pear shaped pearls, and the Emerald tiara that isn’t allowed to leave Denmark have both been used by Queen Mary.
