There are many striking antique Jewels coming up for Auction this month, with spectacular antique Necklaces and a Tiara going on Auction at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Sale in New York today!
Christie’s Magnificent Jewels | 10 December 2025
Cartier Belle Époque Diamond Brooch
Estimate: USD 20,000 – USD 30,000
A Cartier Belle Époque Diamond Brooch with old and rose-cut diamonds, platinum (partially obscured French mark), circa 1910, signed Cartier Paris, Londres, New York, numbered, red Cartier case.
Lacloche Frères Belle Époque Diamond and Platinum Bracelet
Estimate: USD 200,000 – USD 300,000
Helene Anna Held (1872 – 1918), thence by descent
A Lacloche Frères Belle Époque Diamond and Platinum Bracelet of rose and leaf motif imitating petit point, old, round, single and rose-cut diamonds, platinum and 18k white gold (French marks), 1914, signed Lacloche Frères.
The present bracelet is formerly from the collection of Anna Held, created by renowned French jewelry house LaCloche Frères. This embroidery-inspired technique embodies both refinement and innovation transforming platinum and diamonds into a work of art that appears delicate, almost textile in nature.
Jaques & Marcus Antique Diamond Necklace
Estimate: USD 120,000 – USD 180,000
The storied history of Marcus & Co. – and all that came before – begins in Europe and takes shape amid the hustle and bustle of New York City. One key figure, Herman Marcus, together with his family, serves as the connecting thread through each partnership that ultimately led to the establishment of Marcus & Co.
Jaques & Marcus was a collaboration between George Jaques and William Marcus. From 1878 to 1892, the pair worked to establish themselves as artistic jewelers celebrated for their craftsmanship, technical innovation, and the thoughtful use of diamonds and vibrant colored stones. At the time, Union Square was the center of New York’s jewelry trade, and competition was fierce. With leading houses such as Tiffany & Co. nearby, Jaques & Marcus distinguished themselves by collaborating with artists and sculptors, continually pushing the boundaries of jewelry design.
In 1892, George Jaques withdrew from the partnership, and the Marcus family enterprise began to evolve once more. Surviving examples of Jaques & Marcus jewelry are rare today, making Lot 48 an exceptional piece from this pivotal period in the history of Marcus & Co.
Estimate: USD 50,000 – USD 70,000
An Emerald and Diamond Necklace with oval and round emerald cabochons, old and baguette diamonds, circa 1950, elements detachable for a variety of wear.
The restrictions and rations of World War II spurred jewelry designers into a wave of innovation when faced with a scarcity of metal and gemstones, wartime austerity in disposable income, and the desires of women taking on new roles in the workforce. Jewelers had to do more with less, leading to a rise in convertible jewelry: pieces that can be worn in multiple ways, serving multiple purposes. Designs became mechanically ingenious, featuring hidden hinges, clasps, and screw mechanisms that allowed parts to detach or reconfigure easily. Women working by day and socializing by night could transform their jewels to suit the occasion. The present lot, a glamourous emerald and diamond necklace with removable elements that can be separated into two brooches, is an example of such innovation.
Convertible jewelry predates the war, but popular messaging about supporting the troops and avoiding excess amplified its appeal. The retro glamour of the era with an aesthetic leaning towards bolder, sculptural curves was dramatic yet optimistic, mirroring the hope of recovery. After the war, as prosperity returned, the demand for the practicality of convertible jewelry declined, but the ingenuity of wartime design left a lasting mark on mid-century jewelry trends. The legacy of convertible jewelry is one of adaptability, resilience, and innovation, much like the women who wore it.
Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Necklace
Estimate: USD 120,000 – USD 180,000
A Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Necklace with round, single and baguette-cut diamonds, platinum, circa 1955, signed V.C.A, N.Y. (heavily obscured), numbered (partially obscured), black Van Cleef & Arpels envelope pouch.
Antique Diamond Necklace
Estimate: USD 30,000 – USD 50,000
An Important Private Collection of Antique Jewelry
An Antique Diamond Necklace with pear, old and rose-cut diamonds, silver-topped gold, late 19th century.
Antique Diamond Earrings
Estimate: USD 100,000 – USD 150,000
An Important Private Collection of Antique Jewelry
A pair of Antique Diamond Earrings, with old European brilliant-cut diamond of 9.61 carats, circular brilliant-cut of 9.23 carats, silver-topped gold, late 19th century.
Antique Diamond Rivière Necklace
Estimate: USD 250,000 – USD 350,000
An Important Private Collection of Antique Jewelry
An Antique Diamond Rivière Necklace with round brilliant-cut diamond of 8.38 carats, circular brilliant-cut diamond of 4.58 carats, old European brilliant-cut diamond of 4.49 carats, old-cut diamonds, silver-topped gold, circa 1880, red Garrard & Co. fitted case.
Antique Sapphire and Diamond Necklace
Estimate: USD 100,000 – USD 150,000
An Important Private Collection of Antique Jewelry
An Antique Sapphire and Diamond Necklace, with modified oval to cushion buff-top mixed-cut and step-cut sapphires, old and rose-cut diamonds, silver topped gold and yellow gold, circa 1880.
Antique Sapphire, Diamond and Ruby Serpent Brooch
Estimate: USD 20,000 – USD 30,000
An Important Private Collection of Antique Jewelry
An Antique Sapphire, Diamond and Ruby Serpent Brooch with square cushion mixed-cut sapphire, old and rose-cut diamonds, round cabochon rubies, silver topped gold, late 19th century, please note the smaller section of the tail is articulated
Antique Multi-Gem Brooch
Estimate: USD 20,000 – USD 30,000
An Important Private Collection of Antique Jewelry
An Antique Multi-Gem Brooch with round and cushion-shaped multi-colored gemstones including alexandrite, amethysts, aquamarine, colored sapphires, emeralds, fire opal, garnets, peridots, quartz, sapphires, spinels, topaz and tourmalines, old-cut diamonds, yellow gold and silver, circa 1850.
Verdura Amethyst, Colored Diamond and Diamond Necklace
Estimate: USD 40,000 – USD 60,000
Elegant Jewels from the Collection of Maureen Dwyer Smith
A Verdura Amethyst, Colored Diamond and Diamond Necklace with cushion and square-shaped amethysts, round and single-cut yellow diamonds and diamonds, yellow and white gold, signed Verdura, navy Verdura envelope pouch.
Emerald and Diamond Pendant Necklace
Estimate: USD 120,000 – USD 180,000
Elegant Jewels from the Collection of Maureen Dwyer Smith
An Impressive Emerald and Diamond Pendant Necklace with heart modified brilliant-cut emeralds, round, pear and marquise diamonds, platinum, pendants are detachable
Graceful, selfless and endlessly generous, Maureen Dwyer Smith left an enduring mark on both the institutions she was involved in and the people she encountered during her lifetime. Maureen was born in New York City and grew up in the suburb of New Rochelle. She pursued her passion for art at Newton College of the Sacred Heart, where she earned her degree in Painting and Studio Art, and later at The New School, studying the philosophy of Ludwig Wittgenstein.
She began her career in publishing, but her true stage became Chicago, where she and her husband, Edward “E.B.” Smith, built a life together for more than fifty years. Their marriage was filled with love, happiness, and shared adventures with their sons Edward and Peter, along with their daughters-in-law Debbie and Eliza and five grandchildren Nathan, Brandon, Liam, Josie, and Teddy.
Together, Maureen and E.B. cultivated remarkable collections that reflected their deep appreciation for art and history. Their interests spanned from contemporary glass paperweights and American paintings to remarkable examples of secular and religious stained glass windows spanning eight centuries. Many of these valuable works have been donated to museums in Chicago, where they continue to inspire and delight new generations of admirers.
Her legacy lives on not only through her contributions to Chicago, but through her jewelry collection which is a testament to her vibrant and sophisticated character. From colorful jewels by the world’s greatest designers including Tony Duquette, Verdura, and David Webb, to important diamond and gemstone jewelry including an impressive emerald and diamond necklace, Maureen’s jewelry reflects her passion for design and enduring elegance.
Christie’s is proud to present Elegant Jewels from the Collection of Maureen Dwyer Smith.
Verdura Turquoise and Diamond ‘Stardust’ Necklace
Estimate: USD 40,000 – USD 60,000
Elegant Jewels from the Collection of Maureen Dwyer Smith
A Verdura Turquoise and Diamond ‘Stardust’ Necklace, of celestial motif, oval and pear-shaped turquoise cabochons, round diamonds, 18k white gold, signed Verdura, navy Verdura envelope pouch.
Verdura Cuff Bracelet
Estimate: USD 30,000 – USD 50,000
A Verdura Black Jade, Emerald and Diamond ‘No. 93’ Cuff Bracelet, centering upon an antique element, rectangular-cut emerald, old-cut diamonds, 18k white and yellow gold, signed Verdura, maker’s mark, numbered, black Verdura case.
Belle Époque Diamond Tiara
Estimate: USD 30,000 – USD 50,000
Splendor & Style: Jewels from the Collection of a Distinguished Lady
A Belle Époque Diamond Tiara with old and rose-cut diamonds, platinum and white gold, circa 1910, tiara fitting and hair comb of later addition.
Among the most impressive treasures are two magnificent diamond necklaces. Set with stones steeped in history and brilliance, these dazzling rivieres boast nearly 150 carats of old-cut diamonds. Complementing them are a pair of matching old-cut diamond earrings (Lot 142) and a show-stopping Belle Époque Diamond Tiara (Lot 140), each radiating timeless glamour.
Diamond Rivière Necklaces
Estimate: USD 400,000 – USD 600,000
Splendor & Style: Jewels from the Collection of a Distinguished Lady
A pair of Elegant Diamond Rivière Necklaces, one necklace with fifty-four graduated old-cut diamonds ranging from 5.91 to 0.52 carats, second necklace with fifty-one graduated old-cut diamonds ranging from 8.74 to 0.51 carat, silver-topped gold.
